





Techniques at the Torch
Article 05 / 15
12 min de lecture
Every piece is built from a small number of gestures repeated with more and more control: heating, gathering, turning, pulling, joining and blowing. This entry moves from the first moments at the torch, through the basic techniques and the tube work that borosilicate is known for, to the classic Venetian patterning techniques and how they translate to the flame.
It assumes your studio is set up safely, with proper ventilation and eye protection rated for borosilicate work (see The Studio), and that you know how to read the flame (see The Flame and Reading Heat).
First techniques
Introducing glass to the flame
Borosilicate expands very little when heated (its coefficient of expansion is about 3.3 × 10-6 per °C, roughly a third of soft soda-lime glass), which is why it tolerates heat so well. It can still crack or "pop" if a cold rod goes straight into a hot flame, especially thicker rods, tube ends and many colour rods. So start every rod by flashing it: pass the tip in and out of the cooler outer flame for several seconds, then move it gradually into the heat, always working from the tip back.
Once the tip is warm, rotate the rod constantly so it heats evenly on all sides. Keep out of the hottest part of the flame until the glass is warm through.
Gathering
Gathering is collecting molten glass into a workable mass. As the end of the rod softens, keep turning it and let surface tension pull the glass back into a ball, or "gather". Feed more rod into the flame to make it bigger. Turning steadily keeps the gather centred: stop, and gravity pulls it off-axis.
Points and punties
A punty is a handle: a scrap rod (or a pulled point) fused to the glass so you can hold and turn the piece while you work on the other end. To attach one, heat the end of the punty and a small spot on the piece until both are soft, touch them together, and let them fuse before you rely on the joint. A good punty sits on the axis of the piece, so it turns true, and is joined just firmly enough to hold yet come off cleanly afterwards.
On tube, you make a "point" by heating a band of the tube all the way round until it is soft, then pulling the two ends apart outside the flame so the tube narrows to a thin neck. Points serve as handles and air passages, and let you close a tube neatly.
Shaping and forming
Once gathered, the glass can be shaped with heat, gravity and tools. Graphite paddles flatten and smooth, tweezers pull and push, and gravity does a surprising amount of the work. Shape in short passes, returning to the flame whenever the glass stiffens. Forcing stiff glass leaves chill marks and builds stress.
Mandrels and bead release
Beads are wound on a mandrel: a thin stainless steel rod dipped in bead release, a clay-based slurry that stops the glass bonding to the steel and leaves a clean hole. For borosilicate, use a release rated for its higher working temperatures. Let it dry completely, warm the coated mandrel in the flame, then wind molten glass onto it while turning, keeping both ends of the bead seated on the release. After annealing, clean the release out of the hole under water to keep the dust down.
Adding colour
Glass can be coloured with pre-coloured rods, with frit (crushed coloured glass) or with powders. Roll the hot gather in frit, then reheat gently and melt it in. Use only colours made for borosilicate: soft glass colours are not compatible and will crack. Colour is the subject of Colour in Glass.
Stringers, ribbons and twisties
Stringers are thin rods of glass, often 1–2 mm across, used for drawing lines, dots and fine details. To make one, heat a small gather evenly, take it out of the flame, wait a moment, then pull it apart steadily, either with a second rod or tweezers. Ribbons are flattened canes, pressed with a paddle or pulled from a flattened gather, for broader bands of colour. Twisties are canes in which two or more colours spiral around each other: build a striped gather between two punties, heat it evenly, then twist and pull at the same time.
Keeping a heat base
One of the habits that separates a piece that survives from one that cracks is keeping the whole piece warm while you work on one part of it. Small areas cool very quickly, and a hot spot next to a cold one creates stress. Wave the whole piece through a soft flame regularly so it never gets cold before it is finished.
Flame annealing and kiln annealing
When you finish, flame anneal: warm the whole piece evenly in a soft, bushy flame so it is at one temperature, then put it straight into a hot kiln. Kiln annealing relieves the stress that working leaves in the glass. Schott gives the annealing point of Duran borosilicate as 560 °C, and kiln schedules for borosilicate jewelry typically hold at around 560–565 °C (about 1,040–1,050 °F), then cool slowly. Times depend on thickness: follow your manufacturer's guidance. More on this in Finishing, Combining and Troubleshooting.
Intermediate techniques
Sculpting in glass
Sculpting means shaping molten glass into more intricate forms, such as animals, flowers or abstract shapes. It requires precise control of temperature and movement: heat only the part you are shaping, with a smaller, sharper flame, while keeping the rest of the piece warm.
Encasing
Encasing means layering clear glass over a coloured base to create depth and dimension, and to protect delicate surface work. It is especially popular for marbles, pendants and the cores of beads. Apply the clear in overlapping wraps, slowly so you don't trap air, then melt it smooth.
Implosion
Implosion is one of the hallmark techniques of borosilicate, and the pattern you see in many boro pendants and marbles. Lines or dots of colour are laid along a clear form, then the face of the piece is heated so the glass melts inward and draws the colour towards the centre and back. Repeating this builds a three-dimensional, often flower-like pattern seen through a lens of clear glass. Because it means long, hot working of thick clear glass, borosilicate's resistance to thermal stress suits it especially well.
Fuming, often taught at this stage, is covered in the next entry: Colour in Glass.
Tube work, joins and hollow forms
Borosilicate comes in a huge range of tubing as well as rod, and much of its character comes from tube work, which grew out of scientific glassblowing.
Hollow work and blow tubes
Hollow forms, such as hollow beads, vessels or ornaments, are made from glass tubes rather than rods. Close one end of the tube, heat a band of glass until it is soft, take it out of the flame and blow gently into the open end while rotating it, so the glass expands evenly: like traditional glassblowing, on a smaller scale. A blow tube, a length of flexible hose with a mouthpiece attached to the open end of the glass, lets you blow while both hands turn the work, and keeps your face away from the flame.
- Even wall thickness: uneven walls are weak spots. Heat evenly all round, then blow in short puffs out of the flame; glass that is too hot balloons where it is thinnest.
- Let it breathe: air expands as it heats. Any closed hollow piece needs a way for the air to escape while you work it, or it can bulge or burst.
Seals: butt seals and ring seals
In tube work a "seal" is a fully fused joint. The butt seal joins two tubes of the same diameter end to end: heat both ends until they are soft, bring them together squarely, then heat the joint all the way round while blowing gently so the wall evens out and the seam disappears. A ring seal fixes one tube inside another, the inner tube passing through the end of the outer one, so the two are joined in a ring of glass. It is used for double-walled and internal structures, and is harder because the inner tube is heated through the outer one.
A good seal has the same wall thickness as the tube on either side and no visible line or bubble at the join. A thin or lumpy seal is where a piece cracks later.
Tacking before sealing
For large or complex pieces, sections can first be tacked together with small spot joins, so the placement can still be checked and adjusted. Once the placement is right, the joints are heated and fully fused into proper seals. A tack is never a finished joint: the small contact area concentrates stress, so every tack has to be properly sealed, and the whole piece kept warm while you do it. (This step is sometimes loosely called a "cold seal", but that is not a standard lampworking term: the usual words are tack, then seal.)
The lathe: perfecting symmetry
For large, symmetrical tube work, such as goblets, vases or large hollow sculptures, a glass lathe holds the tube in chucks at both ends and rotates it evenly while you apply heat. It is more common in large and scientific work than in jewelry.
- Centre the glass in the chucks so it runs true without wobbling.
- Heat evenly with a soft, bushy flame before you start shaping; uneven heat causes distortion.
- Choose the speed: fast enough that soft glass doesn't sag, slow enough that it doesn't throw outwards. Larger diameters generally need slower speeds.
Working order of a simple piece
Whatever you make, the order of work matters as much as the individual techniques. A simple encased pendant shows the sequence:
- Prepare: lay out rods and tools, check the kiln is at temperature, and put on eye protection before lighting the torch.
- Flash and gather: warm a clear rod gradually, then build a gather at its tip.
- Add colour: lay on stringers, dots or frit, melting each in before the next.
- Encase and shape: wrap the work in clear, melt it smooth and shape it with heat, gravity and a paddle.
- Form the bail: add the loop or hole the pendant will hang from while the body is still warm.
- Flame anneal the whole piece evenly and put it straight into the kiln.
Throughout, keep the heat base: no part of the piece should cool much before it reaches the kiln.
Patterns: latticino, reticello, filigrana and millefiori
These patterning techniques are most closely associated with the glassmakers of Murano, in Venice, who perfected them in the furnace, with teams pulling canes many metres long. The same principles work at the torch on a smaller scale. They demand precision and practice, and reward it.
Filigrana: the family name
Filigrana (filigree glass) is the generic name for blown glass decorated with canes laid lengthwise: canes with threads of white, and sometimes coloured, glass inside clear glass. The style originated on Murano in the 16th century and was revived there in the 20th. Its main types are vetro a fili (straight threads), vetro a retorti (twisted threads, also called zanfirico) and vetro a reticello (a net pattern).
Latticino: twisted cane
Latticino comes from latte, milk, after the opaque white glass, lattimo, traditionally used for the threads. The name is older than filigrana but still widely used for twisted cane.
- Prepare the canes: at the torch, build a clear gather with stripes of white or colour on it (or a core with threads around it), then heat it evenly between two punties.
- Control the twist: twist and pull at the same rate for a consistent spiral; a lathe helps with longer canes.
- Use it: as decoration in marbles, beads or sculpture, encased in clear glass for depth.
Reticello
Reticello is the classic net pattern: a fine mesh of white threads in clear glass, with a tiny air bubble trapped in each diamond of the net. In the furnace it is made from two layers of twisted cane spiralling in opposite directions: one blown as a cup, the other pushed inside it, with air caught between their ribs forming the bubbles. The term is also used loosely for any criss-cross pattern.
- At the torch, lay twisted canes in parallel around a form, then lay a second set twisted in the opposite direction over or inside them.
- Use a soft, even flame, rotate constantly so the pattern doesn't distort, and encase it in clear glass, working slowly to avoid unwanted bubbles.
Millefiori and murrine
A murrina (plural murrine) is a slice cut from a cane with a pattern or image running through it, so the design shows in cross-section. Millefiori, Italian for "a thousand flowers", is the name for many flower- or star-shaped murrine used together. Patterned cane is ancient, and Venetian glassmakers revived murrine on Murano in the early 16th century. The word "millefiori" itself only entered English in the 19th century.
- Build a cane with a floral or geometric design, by layering colour over a core, adding stripes and dots, or bundling smaller canes together, then heat the whole mass evenly.
- Pull slowly: stretching the cane with even heat and tension keeps the cross-section in proportion as it shrinks; uneven heat distorts the pattern.
- Slice and embed: cut thin slices, preheat them so they don't crack, place them on the surface of the piece and encase them in clear glass.
Once the techniques are in your hands, the next step is the colour that runs through them: Colour in Glass.
Testez-vous10 questions
Choisissez une réponse pour chaque question, puis vérifiez vos résultats à la fin.
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01What does it mean to "flash" a rod?
Starting gently avoids thermal shock, especially with thick rods, tube ends and colours.
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02What is a punty?
A good punty sits on the axis of the piece and comes off cleanly afterwards.
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03What does bead release do?
It is a clay-based coating. For borosilicate, use a release rated for its higher temperatures.
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04What are twisties?
A striped gather is heated between two punties, then twisted and pulled at the same time.
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05What does keeping a "heat base" mean?
A hot spot next to a cold area creates stress. Pass the whole piece through a soft flame regularly.
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06What is implosion?
A hallmark borosilicate technique, often seen in pendants and marbles.
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07What does a butt seal join?
A good seal has the same wall thickness as the tube on either side and no visible line.
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08Why does a closed hollow piece need a way for air to escape?
Vent hollow work while you heat it.
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09Where does the word "latticino" come from?
It belongs to the filigrana family of Murano canework, alongside a fili, a retorti and a reticello.
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10What is a murrina?
Millefiori, "a thousand flowers", is many flower-shaped murrine used together.
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