



The Flame and Reading Heat
Entry 04 / 15
11 min read
The flame is the main tool of lampworking. Its chemistry changes the colour of the glass, its shape decides the detail you can reach, and the glass itself tells you how hot it is, through its glow and, more reliably, through the way it moves. This entry is about learning to see both: the flame you are making and the heat you are putting into the glass.
How a torch flame works
The temperature at which glass softens depends on its chemical composition, and borosilicate needs far more heat than soft glass (see What Glass Is). That is why borosilicate is worked with a fuel burned in oxygen rather than in air. Propane burned in air reaches a theoretical maximum of about 2,000 °C; propane burned in pure oxygen can reach roughly 2,800 °C under ideal conditions. Real flames run below these figures, and the glass never approaches flame temperature: it only needs roughly 1,000–1,250 °C to be fully workable.
Anatomy of the flame
- The inner cone: the small, sharply outlined blue cone at the face of the torch. This is where the gases first react. The gas inside the cone itself is not yet fully burnt.
- The hot spot: the hottest part of an oxy-fuel flame sits just beyond the tip of the inner cone. Glass held a little in front of the cone heats fastest.
- The outer envelope (or feather): the larger, paler flame around and beyond the cone, where combustion finishes using oxygen from the torch and from the surrounding air. It is cooler, and it gets cooler the further you move from the torch.
Distance is therefore one of your controls: much of torch work is simply choosing where in the flame the glass sits.
Oxygen and fuel
Complete combustion of propane needs five volumes of oxygen for every volume of propane (C3H8 + 5 O2 → 3 CO2 + 4 H2O). In practice a torch flame also draws oxygen from the room, so lampworkers often quote torch ratios of roughly 2 to 4 parts oxygen to 1 part propane, depending on the torch and the flame size. Treat these as background: you set the flame by eye and ear.
Types of torch
- Surface-mix torches keep oxygen and fuel in separate channels until they leave the torch face, where they mix and burn. Most torches sold for glass work are surface-mix. Because the gases never mix inside the body, they are less prone to flashback.
- Premix torches mix the gases inside the torch before they exit. They give a tight, sharp flame but need more care, as mixed gas inside the torch can burn back.
- Air-propane torches, which draw air into the flame, are suitable for soft glass but generally struggle to bring borosilicate to working heat.
Whatever the torch, follow the manufacturer's instructions for lighting and shutting down, fit flashback arrestors and check valves where your supplier and local regulations require them, and keep the room well ventilated. Most oxy-propane torches are lit with propane first, then oxygen added, and shut down oxygen first, but your torch's manual is the authority. Gas set-up and ventilation are covered in The Studio.
Flame chemistry: neutral, oxidising and reducing
Flame control is one of the most important skills in borosilicate work. Chemistry matters because many glass colours contain metals, and metals change colour depending on how much oxygen surrounds them. In chemical terms, oxidation means losing electrons and reduction means gaining them. An oxygen-rich flame favours higher oxidation states; a fuel-rich flame, full of carbon monoxide and unburnt carbon, takes oxygen away from metal oxides and pushes them towards lower oxidation states or even the bare metal.
Neutral flame
A balanced ratio of oxygen and propane.
A sharp, well-defined blue inner cone with a thin, translucent outer envelope. Little or no yellow or orange at the edges. A steady, clean hiss.
Used for: general melting of borosilicate, fuming with silver, clean joins, tube work.
Oxidising flame
An excess of oxygen.
The inner cone narrows and shortens; the flame becomes compact and sounds more aggressive, with an intense hiss. The cone is very sharp and can look blue-violet. Because the heat is concentrated in a smaller space, it feels hotter and more focused, although a strongly oxidising flame does not reach a higher peak temperature than a neutral one.
Used for: clean, bright joins in clear borosilicate (many workers run slightly oxidising for clear), and keeping copper in its oxidised Cu2+ state, which colours glass blue to turquoise and green. Iron behaves similarly: oxidised Fe3+ leans yellow-brown, reduced Fe2+ leans blue-green. Too much oxygen can make some colours boil, so "oxidising" in practice usually means slightly oxidising.
Reducing flame
An excess of fuel. The fuel takes oxygen away.
The inner cone grows, softens and loses definition. The outer envelope expands and becomes slightly luminous and feathery; a faint yellow-orange touch at the edges is normal. The sound is softer and more muffled than a neutral flame. The effective temperature is lower, and the flame is rich in unburnt carbon and carbon monoxide, which is one more reason good ventilation is essential.
Used for: striking copper towards warm tones, drawing out metallic lustre, encasing in a reducing envelope, softening an oxidised fume before striking. Here is what actually happens with copper: Cu2+ (blue-green) is reduced to Cu+, which on its own is nearly colourless in glass, and then to metallic copper, Cu0. Tiny particles of metallic copper, or of cuprous oxide (Cu2O), give the reds, ambers and browns; metallic copper at the surface gives a coppery sheen. Silver works in a comparable way: silver ions reduced to metallic silver particles produce yellows and ambers, and on many silver-bearing colours a reducing flame brings up a metallic, iridescent surface. Surface reduction effects can be burnt away by a later hot oxidising flame. The colour side of this is explored in Colour in Glass.
Flame shape, and working in and out of the flame
Bushy and pinpoint flames
A bushy flame, broad and soft, heats larger sections evenly. It is ideal for sculpting and for large gathers that need consistent heat to avoid cracks and thermal stress.
A pinpoint flame concentrates intense heat on a small area: ideal for fine lines, attaching small components and detail on pendants and hollow forms.
Thermal shock and preheating
Glass cracks when one part expands or contracts much more than another. Borosilicate expands only about 3.3 millionths of its length per degree (written COE 33), roughly a third as much as typical soft glass, which is why it tolerates the flame so well. It is not immune. A thick rod pushed straight into a hot flame can crack or pop, and fragments can fly, which is one more reason to wear proper eye protection at all times.
- Introduce rods and tubes in the cool tail of the flame and move them slowly forwards, rotating all the time.
- The thicker the glass, the more slowly it should be warmed. Scratches and chips on the surface make cracking more likely.
- Thin parts lose heat in seconds. Pass the whole piece through the flame regularly so that thin sections, joins and fine details never fall far behind the rest.
- Never quench hot glass.
Working in and out of the flame
You do not shape glass only in the flame. A common rhythm is to heat a zone in the flame, then lift it out to shape it, where the glass holds its position better and you can see clearly. While you turn, soft glass stays centred; when you stop, it sags. Many workers also keep a heat base: the whole piece stays evenly warm in the outer flame while only the working area is brought to full softness, so cold areas do not crack next to hot ones.
The real temperature points of borosilicate
Glass has no single melting point. It softens gradually, and manufacturers describe that softening with a set of standard reference points defined by viscosity (how stiff the glass is). For borosilicate 3.3 (the family that includes Duran, Simax and Pyrex 7740), the data sheets agree closely:
| Reference point | Temperature | What it means at the torch |
|---|---|---|
| Strain point | about 510–515 °C (950 °F) | Below this, internal stress can no longer be released in any practical time. The glass is fully rigid. |
| Annealing point | about 560–565 °C (1,040 °F) | Stress relaxes within minutes. Kiln annealing soaks at or near this temperature. |
| Softening point | about 820–825 °C (1,508 °F) | The glass begins to sag under its own weight. Still too stiff to gather or shape freely. |
| Working point | about 1,250–1,260 °C (2,290 °F) | Soft enough to form easily: the upper end of normal working heat. |
So borosilicate's working range runs from roughly 820 °C, where it first starts to move, up to around 1,250 °C, with most gathering, shaping and pulling happening in the upper part of that range. The annealing range lies between the strain point and the annealing point, roughly 510–565 °C: a piece is held near the annealing point so stress can relax, then cooled slowly through the strain point. Annealing is covered further in Finishing, Combining and Troubleshooting.
Reading heat: glow colours and their limits
Most solids start to glow a very dull red at about 525 °C, shifting through red, orange and yellow towards white as they get hotter. The table below pairs the traditional glow colours with what borosilicate is doing at those temperatures. Read it as a rough guide, not a thermometer.
| Glow (in a dim room) | Approximate temperature | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| No visible glow | Below about 550 °C | Rigid. Includes the strain and annealing points, so annealing happens at temperatures you cannot see. It looks cold but can burn you badly. |
| Faint dull red | About 550–700 °C | Barely visible, often invisible in a bright studio. Still stiff, well below softening. |
| Dark to cherry red | About 700–850 °C | Around the softening point: edges begin to round and thin parts start to droop. |
| Bright cherry to orange | About 850–1,050 °C | The glass moves slowly. Good for gentle shaping and keeping a piece warm. |
| Orange-yellow to yellow | About 1,050–1,250 °C | Main working heat: you can gather, pull and model freely. |
| Bright yellow-white | Above about 1,250 °C | Very fluid. Overheated for most fuming and striking; risk of bubbles, burnt-out colour and a scummy surface. |
Why glass is harder to read than metal
Glow-colour charts were made for iron and steel, and even they disagree by 100 °C or more. Glass is harder still:
- Clear glass glows weakly. A transparent material gives off much less visible light than a dark, opaque metal at the same temperature. Clear borosilicate can be well above its softening point while showing only a faint glow.
- Much of the orange is not glow at all. The bright yellow-orange you see around hot glass is mostly sodium flare: sodium in the glass, and in dust or fingerprints on its surface, emits intense yellow light at about 589 nanometres in the flame. Borosilicate contains far less sodium than soft glass (a few per cent of sodium oxide rather than around 15 per cent), so it flares less, but the flare still masks the true glow.
- Your eyewear changes the picture. Didymium lenses filter exactly that sodium yellow, which protects your eyes and lets you see the glass, but it also removes much of the colour you would otherwise use to judge heat. Lenses made for borosilicate usually add stronger infrared protection, darkening the view further. Never take your glasses off to read colour; choose eye protection rated for borosilicate work by its supplier.
- Light and thickness matter. A glow obvious in a dim room vanishes in daylight, and a thick gather glows more than a thin stringer at the same temperature.
Reading viscosity by movement
Because colour is so unreliable, experienced lampworkers mostly read heat by how the glass behaves. What matters is viscosity, and viscosity shows itself in movement:
- Edges and corners: when sharp edges start to round over and the surface turns glossy, the outer layer has passed its softening point. This is how fire polishing works.
- Response to gravity: stop turning for a moment and watch. Glass that holds its shape is stiff; glass that sags slowly is at shaping heat; glass that drops off-axis within a second or two is very hot.
- Gathering: a rod end that pulls itself into a round ball by surface tension is at working heat. If it only mushrooms unevenly, it needs more heat or more time.
- Resistance to tools: stiff glass pushes back against a paddle or tweezers and can crack; soft glass gives smoothly; overheated glass sticks and smears.
Heat also has depth. The surface softens first, while the core lags behind, so a piece can look ready on the outside while still being stiff inside. Slower heating in a softer flame gives a gather that is soft all the way through, which is what you want before shaping anything substantial.
With the flame understood and the heat readable, the next step is to put both to work: Techniques at the Torch moves from the first gathers to advanced shaping.
Test yourself10 questions
Choose one answer for each question, then check your results at the end.
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01Where is the hottest part of an oxy-fuel flame?
Glass held a little in front of the cone heats fastest. Distance in the flame is one of your controls.
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02Which describes an oxidising flame?
An excess of oxygen makes the flame compact and focused. Slightly oxidising is common for clear borosilicate.
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03What does a reducing flame do?
Rich in carbon monoxide and unburnt carbon, it pushes metals towards lower oxidation states or bare metal.
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04What colour does oxidised copper (Cu²⁺) give glass?
In a reducing flame it can turn colourless (Cu⁺) and then form metallic particles.
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05Where do copper reds come from?
Reduction turns copper ions into metal particles, which give reds, ambers and browns.
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06What is the softening point of borosilicate?
At about 820 °C it begins to sag. The working point, where it shapes easily, is about 1,250 °C.
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07Borosilicate below about 550 °C:
Annealing happens at temperatures you cannot see. Glass that looks cold can be very hot.
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08What is sodium flare?
It emits at about 589 nanometres and hides what the glass is doing. Didymium filters it.
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09How do experienced lampworkers mostly read heat?
Rounding edges, sagging and gathering into a ball tell you the viscosity far better than colour.
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10How should a cold rod go into the flame?
Even borosilicate can crack or pop if a cold rod meets intense heat too fast.
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