





The Studio: Workspace, Safety and Equipment
Entry 03 / 15
15 min read
Preparing the bench means having the right torch, tools within reach, glass that suits the work, and a studio that keeps you safe. This entry covers the workspace, the gas supply, my safety checklist, annealing, and the torches and kilns most often recommended for borosilicate.
Setting up your workspace
Before you begin, set up a well-equipped and safe workspace. Here is what you will need.
The bench
Work on a fire-resistant surface, such as a metal table or a bench covered with a non-combustible board, with nothing flammable on or under it. Sit at a height where your forearms can rest on the bench, so your hands stay steady during long sessions. A heat-resistant dish or a bed of vermiculite or fibre blanket gives you a safe place to set down hot tools and pieces.
The torch
The torch is the heart of the bench, and the glass decides which torch you need. Torches fall into two families:
- Air-fuel torches: hand torches and small bench burners that mix a fuel such as propane, butane or MAPP-type gas with the surrounding air. They are simple and inexpensive, and suit soft glass (soda-lime glass such as Italian rods), but they do not run hot enough to work borosilicate beyond the very smallest pieces.
- Oxygen-fuel torches: often called dual-gas torches, they mix a fuel (usually propane) with pure or concentrated oxygen. Oxygen is not a fuel itself; it makes the fuel burn much hotter. The hotter, adjustable flame is necessary for borosilicate.
Most lampworking bench torches are surface-mix: oxygen and fuel leave the torch head through separate ports and only mix in the flame, which makes them quieter and less prone to flashback. Pre-mix torches combine the gases inside the torch and give a small, sharp flame, but are louder and carry more flashback risk (although I was recently recommended this option in order to consume less oxygen). If you are starting with borosilicate, a small surface-mix oxygen-propane bench torch is the usual first step. The flame itself is the subject of the next entry, The Flame and Reading Heat.
Essential tools
- Mandrels: stainless steel rods, dipped in bead release and dried, around which beads are wound. The release coating lets the finished bead slide off.
- Tweezers and pliers: for handling, pulling and shaping hot glass.
- Graphite paddle: to flatten and shape glass. Graphite does not stick to hot glass and conducts heat away more gently than steel.
- Marvers: flat surfaces, usually steel, brass or graphite, used to shape and smooth glass.
- Kiln: used to anneal glass, relieving internal stress and preventing cracks (see the annealing section below).
Glass rods and tubes
Rods and tubes come in many colours and diameters, offering endless possibilities. Start with clear or single-colour rods while you learn the basic techniques. Tubes are used for hollow work; rods for solid forms. Borosilicate rods and colours are made to a coefficient of expansion of about 33, and must not be mixed with soft glass in the same piece: the two expand and shrink by different amounts and will crack apart as they cool. Entry 01, What Glass Is, explains why. Specific torch and kiln models are listed at the end of this entry.
The gas supply: oxygen and propane
An oxygen-propane torch connects to two separate supplies. Rules for gas installations vary by country, so follow your gas supplier's instructions and your local regulations, and have the installation checked if you are unsure.
Oxygen: concentrator or cylinder
Oxygen concentrators draw in room air and separate out the nitrogen, delivering gas that is roughly 90% oxygen or more, at low pressure. They need no refills or high-pressure regulator, but their output is limited: one or two suit small and medium torches, while larger torches need cylinder oxygen. Check the oxygen flow and pressure your torch needs before choosing.
Oxygen cylinders store oxygen at very high pressure and can supply large torches. They must be fitted with a proper oxygen regulator, kept upright and chained or strapped to a wall or stand so they cannot fall, and moved with the valve protection cap on.
Oxygen makes everything burn more fiercely. Keep oil and grease away from oxygen fittings (they can ignite in pressurised oxygen), never use oxygen to blow dust off yourself, and remember that clothing soaked with oxygen from a leak catches fire very easily.
Propane
Propane is heavier than air. A leak does not rise and disperse: it sinks and collects in low places such as basements, pits and floor drains, where a spark from a light switch can ignite it. For this reason propane cylinders are normally kept outside the workroom, upright, in a ventilated place away from heat and ignition sources, with the gas piped in. Never store or use propane cylinders below ground level. The exact rules on where and how much gas you may keep are set by local regulations and your supplier.
Regulators, hoses and flashback arrestors
- Regulators reduce cylinder pressure to the working pressure the torch needs. Use the regulator made for each gas.
- Hoses should be rated for the gas they carry and kept in good condition. In Europe, oxygen hose is blue and propane (LPG) hose is orange.
- Check valves stop gas flowing backwards into the wrong line, but they do not stop a flame.
- Flashback arrestors stop a flame travelling back up the hose towards the regulator and cylinder. Most also contain a check valve. Fit them on both the oxygen and fuel lines with cylinder supplies, as your torch and regulator makers recommend, and test or replace them as they advise. Some concentrators are sold for use without an arrestor on the oxygen side, because arrestors can restrict their low-pressure flow; follow the concentrator and torch makers' guidance.
Leak testing and daily routine
Test every new or disturbed connection for leaks with a leak-detection solution or soapy water: brush it on with the gas on and watch for bubbles. Never look for a leak with a flame. If a connection bubbles, shut off the gas and fix it before using the torch. If you smell gas (propane has a strong added odour), turn off the supply at the cylinder, put out any flame, ventilate, and do not operate switches until it clears.
For a typical surface-mix torch, light the propane first with a striker, then add oxygen. To shut down, turn off the oxygen first, then the propane. At the end of a session, close the cylinder valves and bleed the gas from the lines. Always check your own torch's instructions: the order matters.
Studio safety
Safety in lampworking cannot be overstated. These are the main areas, followed by the checklist I follow before every session.
Eye protection
Hot glass gives off two things your eyes need protecting from. The first is sodium flare, the bright yellow-orange glow produced when sodium in the glass enters the flame, which hides what the glass is doing. The second is invisible: infrared radiation from the hot glass and flame, and some ultraviolet. Long-term exposure to infrared is linked to cataracts.
Didymium lenses filter sodium flare very well, which is why they are standard for soft glass. But on their own they give very little infrared protection, so they are not enough for borosilicate, which is worked much hotter. For borosilicate, use lenses made for boro work, which filter infrared and ultraviolet as well as sodium flare, in a shade suited to the size of your flame.
Lens colours and what they are for
Lampworking lenses come in several tints, and the colour is a first clue to what each one filters. Names and ranges change from maker to maker, so always check the protection a lens is rated for, not only its colour.
- Rose, pink or lavender: didymium. Lenses containing the rare earths praseodymium and neodymium, which give them their rose-purple tint and absorb the yellow sodium flare, so you can see the glass itself. For soft glass and small work. Because they block little infrared, safety guides recommend wearing them with at least a shade 2, preferably shade 3, filter.
- Blue-purple: polycarbonate sodium-flare lenses. They do the same job as didymium in a lighter, more impact-resistant plastic. Some are combined with welding filters to reach shade 3 or 5; others give little infrared protection, so check the rating.
- Amethyst: ACE (Amethyst Contrast Enhancer). Filters sodium flare, ultraviolet up to 390 nm and near infrared, and makes reds, blues and greens easier to read. Made for soft glass.
- Green with sodium-flare filtering: boro lenses. Lenses such as Phillips' Green ACE add extra infrared and ultraviolet protection for borosilicate, in shades: 2, a little darker than ACE and still suited to soft glass; 3, for most small to medium borosilicate work; and 5, for very large or very hot pieces. Polycarbonate boro lenses such as BoroView and BoroTruView follow the same logic: 3 for smaller work, 5 for larger.
- Light green: infrared and UV filters without sodium-flare filtering. For kiln work (fusing, slumping and casting) and for looking into a furnace, where heat and brightness matter more than sodium flare.
The shade number tells you how much infrared a lens blocks: to be rated shade 2, a lens must block at least 85% of infrared between 780 and 2,000 nm, and shade 3 at least 91%. Soft glass at a small torch needs at least shade 2; borosilicate, with its hotter oxygen-fed flame, needs at least shade 3, and larger, hotter work a darker shade still. Buy lenses from a glass supplier that publishes their infrared and UV protection.
Anyone sitting close and watching the flame needs the same protection. Clear safety glasses protect only against flying fragments, so they are suitable for people passing through the room, not for watching the torch.
Ventilation and fumes
The torch flame produces combustion gases, and glass releases fumes as it is heated. Some colours contain metals: copper, for example, and certain reds, oranges and yellows are coloured with cadmium and selenium compounds. Copper oxide fumes are toxic; iron oxide fumes are irritating. Fuming, where silver or gold is vaporised in the flame to colour the glass, deliberately produces metal vapour, and so does burning off metal leaf or foil.
That is why active, forced extraction should run throughout the whole session, not only when you notice smoke. A good system captures fumes close to the torch, draws them away from your breathing zone (never past your face) and vents them outdoors. A canopy hood high above the bench catches mainly heat and gives limited protection on its own. An extraction fan also needs makeup air: an opening or supply that lets fresh air into the room to replace what is extracted. Without it the fan moves far less air and can pull fumes back from other appliances. Size the system with your supplier or a ventilation specialist, and follow local regulations. Read the safety data sheet for any colour or powder you use.
Clothing
Wear natural fibres such as cotton, wool or linen. Synthetics like polyester and nylon can melt onto skin when they catch a spark or hot fragment. Avoid loose sleeves and dangling scarves, tie back long hair, and wear closed shoes. Remove rings and bracelets that could trap heat against your skin.
Fire and burns
Keep a fire extinguisher nearby that is suitable for the fires a studio could have. A multipurpose dry powder extinguisher rated for solids, flammable liquids and gas fires (ABC in the European and many other systems) is a common choice; check the classes on the label against your local fire safety advice. With a gas fire, the first action is always to shut off the gas supply: a gas fire put out while the gas keeps flowing can re-ignite explosively. A fire blanket is also useful.
Glass stays hot long after it stops glowing. For a burn, cool it under cool running water for 20 minutes, remove nearby jewelry and clothing unless it is stuck to the skin, and cover it loosely with cling film. Do not use ice, butter or creams. Seek medical help for large or deep burns, or burns to the face.
My checklist before every session
- Ventilation: active forced extraction throughout the whole process.
- Eye protection: boro-rated lenses for whoever is at the torch and anyone watching closely.
- A fire-resistant surface for all work, such as a metal table, clear of anything flammable.
- Gas: hoses and connections checked, flashback arrestors in place, no smell of gas.
- An annealing protocol decided before you start: a kiln preheated to the annealing temperature for borosilicate (around 565 °C / 1050 °F), or, for very small pieces only, a planned flame-annealing and slow-cooling method.
- Water and a burns kit on the table, and a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Steel wool is only handled with metal tongs near the flame: fine steel wool catches fire very easily.
- Mineral powders: avoid inhaling them; wear a suitable dust mask or respirator at every stage where powders are handled, and keep their containers closed.
Annealing and the kiln
When glass cools, the outside cools and stiffens before the inside. That difference locks stress into the piece, and stressed glass can crack hours, days or even weeks later. Annealing removes this stress: the piece is held at a temperature where the glass can relax internally without losing its shape, then cooled slowly and evenly.
The annealing point of laboratory borosilicate such as Duran is 560 °C, and lampworkers usually anneal borosilicate at around 565 °C (1050 °F). This is noticeably hotter than soft glass, which anneals at roughly 500 to 520 °C depending on the brand, so a schedule written for soft glass will not properly anneal borosilicate. Always check the annealing temperature your glass maker recommends.
A typical approach:
- Preheat the kiln to the annealing temperature before you start working, and keep it there.
- Garage the work: place finished pieces into the hot kiln straight from the flame, before they cool, so they never pass through a sharp temperature drop.
- Soak at the annealing temperature. The hold time depends on the thickness of the thickest part: thicker pieces need much longer.
- Cool slowly through the range just below annealing, down past the strain point, then let the kiln cool to room temperature with the door closed.
Flame annealing (evenly heating the finished piece in a soft, cooler flame) followed by slow cooling in fibre blanket or vermiculite can work for very small, thin pieces, but it is less reliable than a kiln. When choosing a kiln for borosilicate, check that its maximum temperature comfortably exceeds the annealing temperature, and if you anneal beads, look for a mandrel port or a door that lets you load pieces quickly.
Torches and kilns
A summary of torches and kilns often recommended for borosilicate. Models, names and prices change, and some are discontinued, so check current specifications, gas requirements and maximum temperatures with the maker or a glass supplier before buying.
Torches
| Torch | Good for | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| GTT Phantom | Professional, precise flame control (surface-mix "triple mix" design with centre and outer fires) for soft and hard glass | Complex to set up; expensive for beginners; needs more oxygen than a single concentrator gives |
| GTT Lynx | Sharp, narrow flame for detailed sculpture | Less suited to large gathers |
| Bethlehem Bravo | Powerful, quiet, broad flame; stable for long sessions | Broad flame is less suited to very fine detail; generally needs cylinder oxygen |
| Carlisle CC+ | Versatile studio torch for both detail and large gathers | Uses a lot of oxygen and fuel; loud |
| Nortel Red Max | Robust and powerful, for large-scale work | More torch than a beginner needs |
| Nortel Major/Minor | Budget-friendly, good first torches (the Minor is smaller) | Less power for large borosilicate pieces |
| National 8M | Versatile, with interchangeable tips | A basic design; limited for advanced borosilicate work |
| Smith Little Torch | Small, precise pre-mix flame for fine detail and jewelry | Only for small areas |
Kilns
| Kiln | Good for | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| Paragon BlueBird XL | Long, narrow chamber for annealing beads, pendants and small pieces; user-friendly | Expensive; slow to heat; less versatile |
| Paragon SC2 | Small and portable, precise; for small studios or travel | Small capacity |
| Evenheat | Reliable, precise controllers; larger chambers for sculpture and batch annealing | Expensive; slow to cool |
| Jen-Ken bead and glass kilns | Digital control for annealing and fusing; durable | Controller takes learning; check the model's maximum temperature |
| Skutt GM814 | Durable, even heat, large chamber | Heavy; expensive; slow to cool |
| Olympic 146GFE | Efficient and easy, for medium to large work | Heavy; needs regular maintenance |
| Chili Pepper | Compact, quick to heat, for bead makers | Too small for larger work; discontinued, and its maximum temperature is close to the borosilicate annealing range |
With the bench set up and the gas safely connected, the next step is learning to read the flame itself, in The Flame and Reading Heat.
Test yourself10 questions
Choose one answer for each question, then check your results at the end.
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01Why are air-fuel torches not suited to borosilicate?
Borosilicate needs a fuel burned with pure or concentrated oxygen to reach working heat.
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02In a surface-mix torch, where do oxygen and fuel mix?
Because the gases never mix inside the body, surface-mix torches are quieter and less prone to flashback.
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03Propane is heavier than air. What does a leak do?
That is why propane cylinders are kept outside, upright and never below ground level.
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04How should you test a gas connection for leaks?
Brush it on with the gas on and watch for bubbles. Never look for a leak with a flame.
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05What does a flashback arrestor do?
A check valve only stops gas flowing backwards; an arrestor stops flame. Most arrestors contain both.
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06Are didymium glasses enough for borosilicate?
Borosilicate is worked much hotter. Use lenses made for boro work that also filter infrared and UV.
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07Why wear natural fibres at the torch?
Polyester and nylon can melt onto skin when they catch a spark or hot fragment.
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08What is the first aid for a burn?
Then cover it loosely with cling film, and seek medical help for large or deep burns, or burns to the face.
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09At about what temperature is a kiln held to anneal borosilicate?
Duran's annealing point is 560 °C. Soft-glass schedules are too cool for boro.
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10What does it mean to "garage" a piece?
The piece never passes through a sharp temperature drop before it is annealed.
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